©Diana Hedstrom

 

TOPICS 
(Click to go directly to the topic of your choice, but please be sure to read all topics)

Crates
Daily Care of Your Foster Pug
Diet and Medications
General Training
ID Tags
MEDICAL EMERGENCY
Potty Training
Temperment Testing
Vaccination and Surgical Guidelines
Veterinary Visits

CRATES

Your best friend with a rescue pug will be a crate!  If you don’t have a crate, you can borrow one or buy one cheaply at a garage sale or in the classified ads.  Check with Jonathan and Katie if you don’t have one.  

Crates are important on several levels.  First, all rescue pugs should be crated while in a moving vehicle.  Just as it is dangerous for a baby or child to not be secured properly in a car, the same goes for a dog.  The pug may of course, prefer to be on your lap, but this is not the safest option.  

Second, a crate is the safest place to keep a rescue pug when you are not home.  One Seattle Pug Rescue foster mom learned this the hard way. While she was away, the foster pug managed to climb, leap, and maneuver himself to a high shelf where a package of chocolate was being stored.    He ate the chocolates, wrappers and all.  This story had a happy ending, but the pug was in the hospital a few days, and the veterinary bill was very expensive for Seattle Pug Rescue.   

Also, if the foster home has several other dogs or cats, crating the pug will ensure that all animals in the home are safe in the absence of human supervision.  

In addition, a crate will help you if you are trying to housebreak your foster pug, or if the pug has food aggression or “alpha” issues with other dogs in the house.  

Most of the pugs that come into rescue have some level of crate training.  However, if your foster pug has never been in a crate, never fear.  We have observed that most pugs can be crate trained within two or three days.  Start by feeding the pug in the crate so they will come to think of the crate as a fun place.  Next, just put a little treat in the crate and give them the command “Crate!”  Then either set the pug in the crate or the pug will go in on his own to get the treat.  Start by only putting the pug in the crate for short periods of time and work your way up to an hour or so.  Pretty soon the pug will go to the crate on his or her own with the “Crate!” command.  

Remember that dogs are historically den animals and many view crates as their home or their private place to get away from the hustle and bustle of other things going on in the home.  Have the crate open, with a blanket or towel inside, in a convenient spot in your home so the pug can easily access it.  

PLEASE NOTE: Having said all of the above, some pugs are just too old and/or too stubborn to suddenly be introduced to a crate,  Other pugs have been abused or neglected and have been left in crates for very long periods.  If you suspect your foster pug has an aversion to crates for any reason, then talk with Sherry or Cathy about alternatives.

DAILY CARE OF YOUR FOSTER PUG

When we place a pug with his or her new family, we try to make sure the pug is in the best shape possible.  Therefore, make sure your foster pug’s nails are trimmed, nose roll cleaned (we use baby wipes with aloe, followed by drying the roll with soft tissue to avoid infection.)  Also, check your foster pug’s ears frequently and keep them cleaned.  Ears that become dirty quickly may indicate an ear infection.  Some pugs come into our rescue that have been strays and they are truly filthy.  We like to bathe our foster pugs immediately –it makes them feel better and it makes us feel better too knowing they are cleaned up!!   Also, strays are prone to dry, cracked noses due to being out in inclement weather and poor nutrition. Apply a little Neosporin to the nose several times a day, and this should clear up the problem very quickly.

DIET AND MEDICATIONS  

It may be necessary for you to feed your pug a special diet, so check with the Volunteer Coordinators Jonathan and Katie about what you should feed your foster pug. Our foster Pugs should be fed once in the morning and once in the evening, with an amount recommended by the vet.  This will ensure the dog does not gain weight by free feeding all day.  The more we can get a pug’s weight down prior to adoption, by putting the pug on a feeding schedule with a healthy diet, the better.  

It also may be necessary for you to administer medications for your foster pug.  If your schedule is too hectic or you are unable to consistently give the medications, please let Jonathan and Katie know.  

GENERAL TRAINING

Seattle Pug Rescue is fortunate to have on board a professional dog trainer, Amy Hunthausen.  Amy is wonderful to work with and can provide you with a wealth of knowledge if you are having training or obedience issues with your foster pug.  Please feel free to contact Amy at any time at awhunthausen@yahoo.com.

ID TAGS  

If you think you will be fostering a lot with Seattle Pug Rescue or if you have a long-term foster pug, it would be a good idea to stop by PetCo and have an ID tag made with your address and phone number on it, just in case.  Do not put your current foster pug’s name on it, so that you can use the same tag for future fosters.  Several of our foster pugs have escaped from their foster homes (and fortunately were recovered), so ID tags would have been helpful in those cases.  The tag costs about $7.00 and you will be reimbursed if you turn in the receipt.  

POTTY TRAINING

Many of our foster pugs will need some degree of potty training.  Read the following article online at http://lringo.tripod.com/pottytrain.html for some excellent potty training tips.  If you have a male dog that is marking in the house, you may need to keep the pug on a leash and attach the leash to your belt in order to keep a careful watch on the pug at all times.  Whenever he starts to lift his leg, quickly pull on the leash and say "NO" very firmly.  Then take the dog outside and praise him when he goes there.

TEMPERMENT TESTING

One of the most important things you can do as a foster home is to provide Jonathan and Katie with information about the pug’s personality.  This allows our Placement Coordinator Tammy to pick from a number of applicants to appropriately match the right family to the right pug.  Recommended reading for evaluating dogs is a book called How to Speak Dog by Stanley Coren.  This book will help you tell whether a pug is submissive or alpha based on his or her body language. 

Additionally, test the dog to the best of your ability in these areas:  

  1. Is the pug food aggression or food protective?
  2. How does the pug do with children?
  3. How does the pug do with other dogs, big and small?
  4. How does the pug do with cats?
  5. Is the pug housebroken?
  6. Any unusual habits or personality traits?
  7. Has the pug had any training, such as sit, stay, and come?
  8. Is the pug active or a couch potato?
  9. How does the pug handle stairs?

Thank you for taking the time to read these guidelines.  We hope they are helpful to you with your foster pug and they help to answer your questions about Seattle Pug Rescue’s policies.  The most important thing to remember is to keep Jonathan and Katie “in the loop” with respect to everything going on with your foster pug.  

VETERINARY VISITS  

Prior to any vet visit, you must contact Jonathan and Katie for approval.  In a life threatening emergency, certainly get your foster pug to the vet as soon as possible, but please call Jonathan and Katie when you get there, day or night.  If you can't reach Jonathan and Katie, call Sherry.  Prior to fostering make sure you have the contact information for Jonathan and Katie, and keep it handy. If you can't reach any of the aforementioned people, make sure the pug is treated, and follow up with a phone call.  Make sure the pug gets the medical attention it needs, immediately.


MEDICAL EMERGENCY

Here are a few examples of what we constitute as a medical emergency:
 
Car accident
Ingested toxins (i.e. chocolate, plants, etc.)
Fall
Labored breathing
Lethargic
Abnormal vomiting
 
Here are things that would not constitute as an emergency and could possibly wait for pre-approval:
 
Anal Glands
Kennel cough
Slight diarrhea or vomiting
Nail cutting
Ear cleaning
 

The bottom line is use your judgment.  If you are in doubt, call the vet and ask their opinion.

VACCINATION  AND SURGICAL GUIDELINES

Because pugs are a brachycephalic (flat faced) breed, certain precautions need to be taken for vaccinations and surgical procedures.  Please remind or inform your vet of the following prior to any medical procedure:  

  1. Benedryl should be administered 15 minutes prior to any shot or vaccine.
  2. Lepto should NOT be given to ANY pug!
  3. Rabies should NOT be given on the same day as other vaccines…wait at least one week, (and don’t forget the Benedryl first.)
  4. Keep an eye on your foster pug for an hour after vaccines.
  5. Anesthesia is very tricky with pugs.  Make sure the vet you are using is familiar with the special needs of brachycephalic breed and uses the proper protocol. Isoflorane is commonly used nowadays for pugs, but a new anesthesia is now available that is even better--Sevoflurane. Please check with your vet and report back to Jonathan and Katie on which one your vet will be using.
  6. When a pug is under anesthesia, it is vitally important that someone other than the vet monitor the pug AT ALL TIMES during the procedure for respiratory rate and heart rate.  They should stay with the pug until he or she wakes up and can stand.  Do not hesitate to ask the vet's staff about this when you are setting up the appointment for surgery.
  7. Pre-operative blood work is recommended prior to surgery with most of our rescue pugs.  Check with Jonathan and Katie on this matter first.
  8. If a pug is going to be under anesthesia, it is helpful to us if you can ask the vet to check the soft palate for potential respiratory problems the crop up frequently with pugs.  This will help us inform a potential adoptive family of possible long-term veterinary costs they may need to incur.

While you are at the vet, remember to have the vet check your foster pug for fleas.   Also, many of our rescue pugs have come to us with Urinary Tract Infections, so if you notice an unusual amount of urination with your foster pug, please let the vet know.  

Many pugs have nasty anal gland issues. If you notice an odd "inky" odor or the pug is scooting and scratching at his/her tail, this may indicate full anal glands. Do not attempt to clean the glands yourself unless you are a trained professional - have the vet do it. 

Finally, it is imperative that a single vet visit does not go above $250 without prior approval.  Get a written estimate from your vet, fax or e-mail it to Jonathan and Katie, and they will submit the request to the SPR board for their approval.  If there is an emergency where the pug needs immediate medical care, please contact Jonathan and Katie ASAP.   

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Updated 3/2/08